Please consider building your system from the BOTTOM UP.

There is no tower speaker, not even a $50K colossus, that can deliver bass like a JL Audio subwoofer.

JL offers three series (D, E & F) of high performing subs that will cover the bass for you. Starting with a JL sub OR TWO will allow your R&L “wing” speakers to do their job better, than having to carry the full load. Further, your wings don’t have to be as large and expensive because you’re not asking them to wield a sledgehammer.

JL’s remarkable subs have massive drivers that wouldn’t even fit in most towers. Even if they did, drivers of such proportions need their own crossover and amp to make them perform properly. Spend your money wisely and plan your system around a sub (or two)!

JL Audio drivers are large, heavy and deep. They even incorporate the mounting facia of the woofer system. All JL cabinets are sealed to deliver taut bass. JL makes its own products, in its own plant, in Fla. JL doesn’t buy woofers from vendors, which show up on the UPS truck, to be screwed into awaiting cabinets with plate amps- which are provided by yet another vendors.

Have a look at drivers from the three JL series:

JL D Series

JL E Series

JL Fathom Series

You can see each series gets progressively larger & stronger.

D Series

D110 $1300 (10” Woof, 750w amp)

D-110 throws a big punch from a small box. D-110 is tighter and DEEPER than similarly priced subs. The new REL T7/x is about the same price. It has a skimpier 8” driver, with 10” passive and 200w amp. While I’m sure it is “fine”- it isn’t a JL D-110. {Massively built 10”, sealed cabinet, 750w}.

E Series

E-110 $1900 (10” Double Throw Woof, 1200w amp)

E-112 $2500 (12” Double Throw Woof, 1500w amp)

Note, both E series subs have the DOUBLE SPIDER design. These boys are turbo charged

and give you dramatically deeper and more powerful performance compared to the D series. Not only are the Es deeper and stronger, they’re tighter.

If you’re looking for an affordable but serious solution for your wings without getting tubby, please consider E-110. If you want a heavy hitter that will rock your world, it is worth stretching to E-112!

F (Fathom) Series

F-110v2 $4000 (10”, 1100w)

F-112v2 $5000 (12”, 1800w)

F-113v2 $6000 (13.5”, 3000w)

F-212v2 $10,000 (Two 12s & 3600w)

Fathoms take you to a new level of performance. Note the build quality of the W7 driver in the above photo comparisons. There’s nothing else like it in our biz. Fathoms are sealed, have superior crossovers, amps and have DARO room correction- which its less expensive brothers do NOT.

Summing Up

So which sub is right for you?

If you want the tightest bass, you’ll consider D-110, E-110 or F-110v2.

If you want to be sure you’ll have a heavier kick to your music, you’ll want E-112 or F112.v2.

You consider F113v2 and F212v2 when the money just doesn’t matter, and you want the best of all worlds.